West Rim, Zion National Park

DAY 1
I had planned on doing the West Rim of Zion Canyon sometime this year, and with the year quickly winding down, I thought I better take advantage of my back to back days off. What is most commonly thought of when talking about the West Rim hike is the portion from Lava Point to the Grotto trail head which is about 13.5 miles. I actually wanted to start up at Lee Pass in the Kolob Canyons portion of Zion National Park, which adds another 24 miles to the hike. I have heard this referred to as the "trans-zion west rim hike" probably because it incorporates part of Kolob Canyons as well. My knees had been swollen for 2 weeks from a volleyball injury so I decided instead of making it a camping trip which would require a heavy pack, I would split it up between 2 days just in case my knees couldn't handle it.

With the days getting shorter and 24 miles of hiking ahead of me in day 1, I knew I would have to get an early start. I got to the LaVerkin Creek trail head at 7:02 just as it was getting light, got my gear together, and got started at 7:12. From what I had read, the LaVerkin Creek trail descended down to the creek and was about 6.5 miles long. The well defined trail immediately descended and meandered through juniper, scrub oak, and aspen trees. I was looking forward to checking out some of the camp sights along the way for possible future camping trips. After about 2.4 miles, I came to camp sight 1, after 3 miles, camp sight 2, and 3.6 miles, camp sight 3. I knew that shortly before the Hop Valley trail came in from the south (right) I would have the option of checking out Kolob Arch.

The Kolob arch is the second longest natural arch in the world, measuring 287.4 feet, only 3 feet shorter than Landscape Arch in Arches National Park.

Starting the day I determined that I wasn't going to go to the arch because it would add about 1.2 miles to my already long hike that I wasn't sure my knees would make. But as I got closer and closer to the arch trail, I began to talk my self into it. So once I got to the trail, which came in from the North (left), I decided to take it.

The Kolob Arch trail starts off pretty level as I walked through a deep canyon. Soon, though, it began to take a toll on my knees and the going was slow as what was normally an easy up and down climb was made much more difficult by my questionable knees. After about 4 mini steep ascents and descents, the trail opened up and I came to a flat wooded area. I thought I'd take a quick breather and just as I stopped I saw a sign indicating that further travel was not recommended and etched in the sign was written, "Kolob Arch. (look up)" Sure enough, as I looked up, I saw the arch. I'm glad that sign was there! The sun was so that the pictures didn't turn out since I was in the shade but the arch was fully in the sun and reflecting it's rays back at me.

I quickly made my way back to the LaVerkin Creek trail. I noticed a horse tie off as I turned back on to the trail. Shortly, I encountered the Hop Valley trail sign and took it to the south. The trail was well defined at first, just as the LaVerkin Creek trail had been, and it started ascending quickly until we were overlooking a large dry river bed which ran through a large plain. I found the the river bed to be incredibly beautiful. I really had never seen anything like it before. As I walked through the river bed, I noticed a small seep of water which I noticed became larger and larger the further south I looked. Soon I could see the trail approaching a cattle fence. I opened the gate and proceeded through. to the far right was a rock wall and I could now see a river which must have started from a spring just past where I saw the seep in the river bed. I continued on the trail until I came to a spot which overlooked the valley below. I could see tons of cows who returned my stare as if they hadn't ever seen a hiker before. As I descended the little plateau, the trail disappeared. I knew I had to just follow the valley south to get to where I was going. As I continued, I dodged cow patties and kept my distance from the cows. At one point, I took a trail that ascended another small plateau but soon found that this trail just led to a makeshift camp sight. I bushwhacked my way through sparse sagebrush and back down this small plateau. At this point, I decided that it might be wise to take out my map and see exactly where the trail was. The map showed that the trail just followed the river. So I went back towards the river and found the faint trail again. The trail actually crossed the river a few times. The river of course, was only an inch or 2 deep so my feet never got wet. I continuously lost the trail over and over through the next couple of miles, but continued to follow the river, spotting many little frogs and even a snake along my way. The trail then left the valley to the right and climbed steeply up a recently improved trail which was wide enough to be an ATV trail. The ascent seemed to go on and on. What made it a little more difficult was the shade that I had enjoyed for the beginning of the hike, was quickly dissipating and the sun was becoming more prominent with every step. Soon after the trail leveled out, I came to the second cattle gate. At this point the trail was very sandy, which it had been for much of the hike so far, and was very exposed to the sun. I noticed fire pit knoll, where I had been earlier in the year with Kaden Elwess looking at some land, so I knew the road was close.

The only portion of the trail I had been on before was the part of the trail from hop valley to where it crosses the Kolob Terrace road when I did a little scouting a couple weeks earlier. That portion of the trail isn't particularly exciting as it is on a slight gradual incline as it crosses the road. Once across the road, the trail goes across about 50 feet of slick rock until it continues through a grassy area. For the next 4 miles of this "connector trail," the trail stays just to the south of the road and takes you through some beautiful meadows. The road was visible from the trail for much of the way. Through the grassy areas, the trail was overgrown and unkept, and there were even poles stuck in the ground to mark the trail in some spots. After about 3 miles on the connector trail, the trail came to slick rock marked by cairns. I had read that the trail was hard to follow in some spots through this area, but I found it very well marked and easy to follow.

The Connector Trail takes you to the Wildcat canyon trail. Once on the Wildcat canyon trail, the trail led me through a pine forest which gave me some much needed shade. At this point I was running low on water and any respite from the hot sun was welcomed. I soon saw the trail coming in from the left that led back to the parking lot of the Wildcat Trail head, known for where you park to do the Subway hike. I have done the Subway twice, once earlier this year, and quickly recognized the trail. Soon the Northgate Peaks trail left off to the right(south) which is the subway route, but to get to Lava Point, I continued straight. At this point, my legs were getting very tired and the Wildcat Canyon trail, thought pretty, seemed to drag on forever. With just a mile or so left, the trail takes you past Wildcat Canyon, a beautiful canyon with white walls and deep green pine trees creating a magnificent contrast. Finally at 6:20 pm, after 11 hours and 8 minutes and 23.9 miles, I made it to Lava point where a car was waiting to take me back home to try to recover as much as possible for the next day.

Day 2
The second day I had planned the completion of the west rim which was from Lava Point down to the Grotto trail head in Zion Canyon. I had read that it should only be 13.5 miles - considerably shorter than the previous day.

I decided to sleep in a bit longer than the previous day to give my aching legs more time to recover. I got to Lava Point trail head about 10:45 and was on my way at 10:50. It was already hot! The high temp the day before exceeded 100 degrees in St George, unusually hot for this time of year, and it wasn't much below 100 degrees on the trail.

A sign at the beginning of the trail indicated that from Scout Lookout to Angels Landing was closed, which ruled out a side trip to Angels. The trail starts out descending down from Lava Point and reaching the West Rim trail after about .1 miles. I, of course, recognized it as I had just come up that trail the day before. It seemed like I came to campsite 9 not long after I started. Campsite 9 is also where you can find Sawmill Springs, and a little spur trail that breaks off on the right (west).

The trail continues for the next 3 miles, or so, along the plateau through grassy meadows until it drops into Potato Hollow. Soon I came to campsites 8 and 7 and the Potato Hollow Spring. From here the trail climbs about 400 feet in a little over a half mile, but the views open up and I was able to look back and view where I had just been.

After about another mile, I came to the trail junction with the Telephone Canyon trail (and campsite 6), which was closed due to fire/flooding conditions. It is a shorter way back, but from what I'm told, less scenic. I had planned to take the standard West Rim trail anyway.

Taking the standard West Rim trail route (canyon rim route, according to the sign) to the right (west) takes you along the rim of the Great West Canyon system and phantom Valley with beautiful views of Greatheart Mesa, Ivins Mountain, and the Inclined Temple. I had to stop and take a few pictures!

As the trail continues along the southwest edge of the plateau, I passed campsites 5, 4, and 3, and views toward the main Zion Canyon's land marks opened up and I was able to spot Castle Dome, Behunin, Mount Majestic, and Cathedral Mountain.

The trail suddenly starts losing elevation as it winds it's way to campsite 2 and the other junction with the telephone canyon trail. There is also a spur trail to the West Rim Spring(also known as Cabin spring) which I took. The spring was only about a 100 yard walk off the main trail. I had read that it was just a seep through the ground, but I located a trickle seemingly coming through the plants just above the pool.

After taking a picture of the Spring, I made my way back to the main trail and continued losing elevation at a fast pace. The trail seemed to be carved out of a rock face which was so steep, that although they were switchbacks, I couldn't see the trail below us. I thought if I were to slide off the side, I wouldn't even catch the trail below because of the steepness and pitch of the cliff. I had no sooner thought that, than I spotted blood markings on the outside of the trail which indicated to me a fall of some sort, and the blood was still dripping.

I peered over the edge but the canyon bottom was still a good 100 feet down and trees blocked the view into it. I decided that I would back track up the canyon once I reached a point where I could get down into the canyon just to see if someone needed help. I reached a spot where I could slide down a foot or two before reaching the canyon bottom. As I bushwhacked my way up the canyon, I realized that it would be a much more difficult trek than I had originally thought. I came to a sand area where I spotted some cougar tracks. They stopped at that spot and turned back around, so I knew I wouldn't encounter one up ahead. I came to the spot where I expected to see something, but nothing was there. The only spot left to look was up on an incline where a thicket of trees kept the top well hidden. I scrambled up the sandy and leafy hillside until I finally made it to the top. I looked around for a second and didn't immediately see anything but the sound of flies swarming was getting louder and louder. I followed the sound and finally saw what had left the blood spot up 100 feet above - a deer. Feeling relieved that it wasn't a person, I skidded down the hill and made my way back to the main trail.

From here, the trail took me across a bridge, spanning a narrow slot at about the 12 mile mark. Just when I thought all the climbing was over, a the trail moderately gained elevation around Cathedral Mountain. The trail then takes you through a narrow chute, where I saw two large buzzards perched atop trees, watching as I made my way below them.

I enjoyed looking down into Refrigerator Canyon to the right (west) as I frequently see it from the inside when I hike Angels Landing. The trail dropped quickly to Scout Lookout after a little over 13 miles and from here, the trail became very familiar.

The Walters Wiggles portion of the hike (21 steep switchbacks) was much more difficult on my knees than usual after nearly 40 miles of hiking already! Once down Walters Wiggles, the trail goes through Refrigerator Canyon - a nice shaded canyon - for a much too short stroll before descending 500 feet in about .75 of a mile. I actually turned around and hike backwards down portions of the trail to relieve my knees of some of the stress.

After 7 hours and 40 minutes of hiking, I made it to the Grotto trail head at 6:30. My GPS registered 15.9 miles, considerably longer than what I had read it would take. I did take a couple of short excursions - one to the West Rim Spring and one to do some investigating down telephone canyon to see what the blood spot was, but not 2.4 miles worth...

Normally after a long hike, I'm ready for more, but this one kicked my butt...or knees, I should say...But after 39.8 miles and 18 hours and 48 minutes of hiking, I was given all I could handle. But I can't wait to do it again!

And I did do it again! To see my 2016 Trans-Zion West Rim hike, click here: