The Subway, Zion National Park

I was informed by Nick McKinlay that he had an extra spot for me in his hike through the subway so I couldn't pass up another opportunity to take part in the great adventure. The original plan was to once again do the "Das Boot" route, as we had done the previous September. But in talking to one of the rangers, Nick was informed that to do the "Das Boot" section this early in the year would be dangerously cold, even with wet suites. So we decided on the normal Subway route which I was excited about since I had never done it before.

We met at the Lins parking lot in Hurricane at 7:15 and drove to the town of Virgin where we took a left on the Kolob Reservoir road. From there it's about a 8 mile drive to the Left Fork trail head, where we left one car and all piled into the other for the final 7 mile drive to the Wildcat Canyon Trail head, arriving at about 8:05.

We got our gear together, took some pictures, left the keys to our shuttle vehicle that was parked at the Left Fork Trail head in the car...ooops...and got on our way at 8:18. There were 6 of us in the group - Nick, his mom and step-dad, mom's friend, myself, and one of Nick's friends.

The hike starts through the open meadows of the Kolob Terrace, which are dotted with Ponderosa Pine trees. Soon, the trail goes through a forested area. After about 30 minutes, we came to the Northgate Peaks trail, which comes in from the right. This is the trail you want to take for a short while, until a clearly marked sign marks the subway route which breaks off to the left. From here, the trail leaves the shade of the trees to open slabs of rock. The trail is marked by cairns for the most part, but if you just continue down to the gully below, it is pretty easy to pick up the trail again as you enter another forested area.

We new there would be a lot more water than our trip last year because of all the rain we had received this spring. As we continued hiking and encountered numerous flows of water down the slickrock, we knew our hunch was beginning to be proved correct.

The trail continues to the left of a noticeable huge gouge at seemingly the end of the canyon with many trees growing out of it. Once up and over the saddle another steep decent of slick rock is encountered. I snuck an occasional peak over to the shelf to the left, to recall the Das Boot route we had taken before.

After a short hike through some scrub oak, we finally came to the steep decent into the canyon. It was actually quite a bit steeper of a decent than I was expecting and if memory serves me correctly, much steeper than the Das Boot route.

Those who had wet suites changed into them. I put on my neoprene socks and made sure all of my gear was stored water tight in my pack.

We started down the canyon and after about 10 minutes, encountered the first obstacle - a jumble of giant boulders. Last time, we chimneyed down the rocks to the far right (about 15 feet up). We went over that way first, but because of the water in front of the giant boulder, we decided to try to down climb the front of the boulder as far as we could and then slide down the remaining 10 feet or so into about 2 feet of water. We all did it this way except for Nick's mom, who slid down the waterfall to the left side of the boulder into a pool, maybe about 4 feet deep. As there are rocks under the water there, I don't recommend doing that. When it was my turn to go, I down climbed the front using the small hand and foot holds and the slope of the rock to keep me on it. As I got lower to the water, the holds began running out and the slope was about 90 degrees. Under normal conditions, I probably could have down climbed to a gentle 5 foot drop into the water, but because my hands were about numb and my forearm muscles tight, I lost my grip about 8 feet up and slid down the boulder into the water. No harm done...

About 15 minutes below the first obstacle is the triple pool which presented us with our first required swim. I wasn't looking forward to this, remembering how cold I was last time, after I got wet...but this time, even though the water would be a few degrees older due to the time of year, I decided not to wear a cotton shirt, opting instead for my nike thermal top, which would dry out much faster. I jumped in and started the swim. I could feel my muscles tightening as I entered the frigid water, but after a few doggie paddles with hat in hand (it was knocked off when I jumped in), I was to the other side.

As we continued on, we noticed several small springs that added water to the canyon. Another 15 minutes or so later, we encountered the next swim where the canyon formed a slot filled with water. This is where we had our first scare. To get to the swim, you have to down climb about 10 feet while water is pouring down on you. This was made more difficult than normal because of the higher water levels and stronger flow. I was the first to make the attempt. As I sat on the top of the rock with water rushing past all around me, somewhat pushing me forward, I tried to put my foot down into the middle of a small pool of water below. But when I couldn't feel the bottom, I quickly lifted it out as my momentum was pushing me forward and placed it on what looked like a small arch on the far side of the little pool. It held and I steped over onto it, staring at a small, pool of water that I was sure to have to swim through. I jumped in and swam through the long dark corridor to the large open area at the end. I quickly made my way to the sunlight to try to warm up.

This is when I heard some commotion back in the slot I had just come out of. Nick went in after me and jumped into the middle of the first small pool that I couldn't feel the bottom of. I didn't want to go in the small pool when I went because of the incredible force of the water fall that would be coming down on my head and back. His foot got stuck momentarily between some rocks but he was able to get in loose quickly and start the swim. His mom was next and she ended up getting stuck in that small pool as well. It took her a little longer to get out, which is what was causing the commotion.

We pressed on and after about another 10 minutes came to Keyhole Falls. I walked down what seemed to be a very strategically placed log that was slippery, but with care, manageable. This led to a little more swimming and a beautiful corridor. At the end of the corridor, the canyon abruptly turns right, where many small pools are encountered, one resembling a heart!

We then crossed over to the left side of the water flow at the top of the waterfall. With no rope, the easiest and safest way is to down climb near the bottom of the waterfall, which means one more swim through a small pool. If you have rope, you can bypass the little swim by continuing a long the ledge about 50 feet where there is a bolt attached to the rock. This allows for about a 30 foot rappel, which we did last time.

Once past this final obstacle, I took in as much of the beauty as I could while shivering and then headed for the sunlight where we took a break and stopped to eat. I also had brought a change of dry clothes, which I changed into. Finally starting to get warm, I was able to look back up canyon and really appreciate the beauty of the Subway!

While we stopped, we talked with a couple of hikers who had passed us on their way. They agreed to take Nick back up to his car since because we had left the shuttle keys in it, it was either find a ride up or hike 7 more miles.

As we got started, we determined that we would all start off together but that to keep up with the hikers who would be giving us the ride up to our car, we would split after a while and let us each hike at our own pace. The first part out descends some beautiful small waterfalls over slickrock red ledges. This is where I had my little spill and we had our first fatality on the hike - my camera! There was talk of retirement for the camera long before this hike, though...

Once past the slick rock waterfalls, the canyon walls open up and the trail crosses the river a few times but for the most part stays above it. On one of the crossings, as my feet felt the chill of the water, I was reminded of just how cold I was a short time before!

We made it to the dinosaur tracks at 2:12 and then back to our car about 3:35. The trail that takes you out of the canyon is marked by a small sign with a boot print on it by a trail that cuts up to the right of the river. The hike up is notorious for being difficult - about 400 feet in about a mile. I found it to be a nice way to warm up my muscles that had been frozen for so long.

The hike is about 8.6 miles and took us about 7 hours at a very leisurely pace.

Water Canyon

After a couple week hiatus from hiking, I got invited by the kapcsos family to accompany them on a hike. It was decided that Water Canyon near Colorado City would be our destination. As I am pretty unfamiliar with that area, I was extremely excited to make it's acquaintance.

To get there, we took highway 59 from Hurricane toward Colorado City. We then turned north on Utah avenue and continued for about 3 miles, veering left as it turned into Canyon street. We came to a dirt road on the right side and followed it until it dead-ended into the trail head. At one point on the dirt road, an intersection is encountered - stay left.

As we drove the dirt road, the beauty of the area we were about to hike in struck me and reminded me of Zion National Park. There were a few cars in the small parking area but we found room and got on our way.

The trail is well defined and starts to the left of the river (or river bed in the dry season). There were numerous trails that led down to the water which made for a fun occasional excursion, but for the most part, the main trail stays high above the river.

As we walked, Liz pointed out rainbow arch to me - an arch near the top of the cliff wall to the right side of the river. As we continued walking we got closer to the arch until we were under it - but across the river and hundreds of feet below it. I was told that people used to ride motorcycles across it! No thank you!

We continued on and the walls of the canyon began closing in on us while glowing with red as the sun was getting lower in the sky. The views were breathtaking! The trail in places became sandy which gave my calves even more of a work out then they were already getting.

We came to a briar patch with trails leading through it to a small pond, seemingly originating from under a large rock, which hung over the pond, forming a beautiful natural grotto like area.

Not long after, Holli led us to our final destination, a subway-type area with a large rock ledge which made for a perfect lunch area. To get there, we had to carefully traverse up a slippery wet rock that had a steady flow of water rushing down it. After a few minutes and a couple of slips and sides later we made it to the lunch spot.

We sat and ate some delicious subway sandwiches made by Lindsay who, apparently, is a world renowned chef - or at least should be after tasting her sandwiches! Yum! As we were sitting up on the ledge, I noticed a trail that leads farther up the canyon off to the left side of the canyon. After taking it for a short while, I determined that it may be a little to "angels landish" for our whole crew, but will be a fun adventure at some future point! From what I've read, it leads to the top of Canaan mountain, which may have been given the nick-name of El Capitan by the locals.

After exploring the source of the water at the head of the canyon, we decided we better get moving back down the canyon. Jenna led the way and we made good time. It was fun viewing the canyon from a different perspective as we headed down canyon. We looked for deer that had been out the night before, according to Liz and Lindsey, but they were content, for the most part, to stay hidden beneath the brush and trees.

We made it back to the car after two miles at a leisurely 4 hour stroll. Definitely a hike to go on if you enjoy Zion National Park!

Historic Babylon and Little Purgatory

With the weather warming up, it was a perfect opportunity for another hike. I again contacted my friend, Dan Lackey, who has great knowledge of many local hikes to see if he was up for a hike. We decided on the day and he picked the hike and off we went.
To get to the trail head, go through the town of leads a little to the north and take a right (west) on a dirt road called Babylon Road (though there was not a street sign, there was a small sign on the right side of the street before the turn off signaling that Babylon trail head was to the right. The first portion of the road is well maintained and travels past a few houses. Soon past the houses, the road becomes much more rough and would be difficult to traverse with a passenger car.

The drive in was fun and scenic. The different perspective – looking back at the Sky Mountain Golf Course from the other side of the big red reef – made for a fun change of scenery. The road ends just past an old silver mill by the Virgin River, after about 5 miles. We parked at the old structures to inspect and explore them. After a brief time, we decided to head back up the trail where we saw a sign for the Historic Babylon Trail head. We went through the fence and made our way through the large rock formations that contain some Indian Petroglyphs, combined with more modern vandalism, on the left side as you are hiking in. The trail crossed a small stream about a half dozen times until it finally found it's way to a desert meadow. The contrast between the soil, which had a purple hue to it, and the surrounding vegetation, which was just beginning to come into bloom in a light green, was spectacular.

A short time later we saw a farmers field in the distance and it became apparent that the trail made it's way right up to the field and then turned left. It was at this point where, for the first time, we encountered our first section of substantial elevation gain. The trail takes you up an inviting drainage as it intersects the Little Purgatory trail just before the 3 mile mark. At the junction, a trail sign marked the beginning of the Little Purgatory Trail. We continued to gain a little more elevation until it was finally apparent that we were about as high as we could get. From here, the highpoint at about 3700 feet, we had great views in all directions – but especially back to the town of Hurricane where we looked down on Sky Mountain, and had great views of Molly's Nipple and Sullivan Knoll.

The descent was made via long switchbacks. As we started our descent and looked down on the Babylon trail we had just been on minutes before, we both remarked on how we never expected the route to take us up to where we ended up. I also realized because of the switchbacks and the spectacular views, I was glad we had done the hike the way we had – by taking the Historic Babylon trail first to the Little Purgatory trail instead of the other way around.




For the most part the trail was easy to follow, although there were a couple of spots where it became faint. There were also a few spots on the Little Purgatory trail where cairns were used to mark the way. In total, we hiked for 5.7 miles in about 2.5 hours. It was a easy hike with a few good scenic views. Definitely a good warm up hike for what we have planned later on this year!

Three Falls

With the kids in Texas but coming out to visit this summer, I’ve been trying to find fun hikes I can take them on when they are out here and, at the same time, stay in shape and stay busy.

Saturday was going to be my last day off for about 12 days so I decided to see if I could get a friend of mine, Dan Lackey, who also volunteers at Coral Canyon, to help me find a good place to hike. Dan is very knowledgeable about many local hikes and has also been looking for a hiking partner for quite sometime.

I had heard of the 3 falls hike before, so when Dan had mentioned it during our previous hike, I asked him if we could do it today. I figured with all the rain we had received in the first 3 months of the year, the waterfalls would be beautiful.

We met at the trail head at 9:00, which is at the end of the cul-de-sac at 120 west and about 400 south in Hurricane. It’s a little difficult to find, if you don’t know what you’re looking for as there is no marked trail head, just a trail leading down to what I’m told is usually a dry river bed, at the end of the cul-de-sac.

Dan mentioned that he had done this hike about 5 or 6 times before but that this was the first time he had seen water in the river bottom. A small river was running in the usually dry bed, and in spots it made hiking difficult as we tried to avoid getting our feet wet. We stayed on the north side of the river, many times climbing high out of the river bed through low hanging trees.

After maybe a half mile, we came to the first set of falls. It’s amazing how water can make a hike so much different - as I tried to imagine this hike with no water, I imagined a fun hike, but with out the additional beauty the water added.

Once to the falls, we climbed steeply up to the left in a little drainage area. Up to this point, I would feel very comfortable taking both my 4 and 2 year olds on this hike, but they would struggle with this next part. My out-of-shape legs felt a burn a lot earlier than they normally would, but we had soon bypassed the falls.

There is a really pretty area right on top of the falls to watch the water go through some narrow slots as it prepares to go down the falls. I took some time exploring this area and even took a few pictures.

We continued on our way up the canyon to what we assumed would be another falls up ahead. We passed a few old car parts from where people used to drive their cars up to the cliffs up above and then push their cars down. We were able to spot 3 cars on the ledges up above that never made it all the way down to the bottom.

After about another half mile we could see the top of the final water fall. As we got closer, we could see how big this one was and could hear the power of the water crashing down into the pool and onto the rock hundreds of feet below.

I got as close as I could to the pool where the water was crashing down, with out getting bogged don in the wet mud surrounding the area. The cool mist, made an already cool morning, almost frosty! So I took some quick pictures and quickly retreated.

We hiked back out, retracing our steps. The hardest part being trying to remember the places that we had crossed the river, many times having to backtrack to rock hop across it. We passed a boy scout troop from Cedar City, who was looking for a place to camp to get out of the snow up there.

After about 2.5 miles and an hour and a half, we returned to our cars. Dan recommended driving up above the canyon we had just hiked in, so we hopped in his truck, drove up a rough dirt road and finally came to the spot where cars were once driven off the cliff. We had a great view from above of the final large waterfall. It was a spectacular view!

Overall, the hike is a great hike! Small kids would have a great time hiking to the first falls, and with a lot of help, could probably make it to the larger falls as well.

Hike with the kids

With the kids moving to Texas shortly (little did I know at the time, in only 4 days), I thought I better get out and make sure they didn't forget how to hike! So we went to one of my favorite hiking spots at the end of 200 West in Hurricane. From SR 9 head north on 200 West and follow it all the way to the end. It will turn to a dirt road for the last few hundred yards.

The trail is a dirt road that takes you all the way down to the river. When we went on this hike last week, we saw one of the naturalists who had driven down in his truck, working in the Desert Tortoise habitat - an area near the river that is fenced off with cages in it. I never saw any tortoises though. He was impressed that the kids had hiked all the way from the top.
On the way down, we saw a perfect spot for a picture, overlooking the Virgin River down below. The kids love using my hiking poles and since they are so stinking cute doing it, I always oblige. For the most part, they have little trouble with the down hill portion of the hike with the one exception of a steep down hill section lasting about 100 yards. I held Trey's hand as we went down it, but Shelby was able to make it on her own.

Before we knew it we made it to the turtle habitat fencing. This part of the trail has soft dirt where the kids love to draw lines and poke holes in the dirt with their hiking poles. The river is not much beyond this point and it's always fun to have the kids listen for it as you can hear it before you can see it.

After our last hike to the river, the kids talked alot about how we had lunch by the river and pretended that the log we sat on was a chair. So when we approached the river this time, the first thing they saw was the log and were so excited. They immediately sat down on it and said, "time for lunch, Dad." So we ate our Penut butter and Jelly sandwiches and then played a litte around the river.

They weren't ready to go, but after about an hour of playing I thought it best to get going while they still had a little energy left for the long uphill climb. On the way out, just past the Tortoise habitat, I spoted a porcupine up in a tree (it looks like a big birds nest from a distance). So I brought the kids over to see it. It was sleeping up in the tree so when I asked what we should name it, Shelby said, "Sleepy!" We also learned what porcupine tracks and scat look like.

By this time most of the energy had been drained from the kids so the hike up hill was a bit more strenuous for me than in was the last time since I had Shelby on my shoulders and Trey in my arms up the steep part. The kids love watching for the fence/gate on the way out - probably because it means that they don't have much longer till they get back to the car!
We made it back after about 3 hours of hiking and exploring, having hiked almost 2 miles (1.93). And neither of the kids fell asleep in the car on the way home!